Chiangrai - Wat Dum or Baan Dum Museum - AJ Thawan Duchanee

Baan Dam (Black House) is the unique creation of national artist, Thawan Duchanee. Part art studio, part museum, part home, Baan Dam is an eclectic mix of traditional northern Thai buildings interspersed with some outlandish modern designs. Baan Dam is a thought-provoking combination of sanuk, the surreal and the sombre and whilst it’s fair to say that some of the artwork and themes on display won’t be to everybody’s liking, 

In Thai, ‘baan’ means home or house and ‘dam’ means black. Baan Dam is sometimes referred to as the ‘Black Temple’, but despite the temple-like appearance of the main building it’s incorrect to describe Baan Dam as a temple.

The Black House isn’t just one structure, but a collection of around 40 buildings of varying shapes and sizes dotted around a peaceful garden. The largest structure is located by the main entrance and sets the tone for what visitors can expect as they explore the rest of the site. Traditional and elegant on the outside, the combination of honey-coloured teak timbers and imposing doors are a work of art in their own right, but it’s what’s inside that surprises. A table of epic proportions that wouldn’t look out-of-place in the Lord of the Rings draws the eye. Snake skins run the length of it to create the most unusual table-runner you’re ever likely to see. The cavernous interior of the hall is interspersed with animal skulls and buffalo horns and this theme is continued elsewhere at the Black House. 

This is Thawan Duchanee’s interpretation of Buddhist philosophy and his style has caused plenty of controversy over the years. The art and themes on display seem to represent the suffering that Buddha saw with Thawan using animal skins and bones to indicate the sickness, old age and death that the Buddha witnessed on his travels. Other artwork on show appears to reflect human desire and cravings and some of the darker imagery and phallic statues might not be something you want the children to see. 

A pity the museum was closed when we arrived.  You can easily google for more pictures on the interior.

Source - http://www.thaizer.com

AJ Thawan Duchanee

Head straight to Phayao for an overnight stay from Chiangrai